Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts

October 12, 2016

Sacré-Cœur, Paris: Moneychangers In The Temple


Admittedly, our visit to Paris was not all rainbows and sunshine. First trimester nausea, a hotel in a not-so-great part of town, and sticker shock were just a few reasons why our weekend in the City of Light does not rank among our more favorite travel experiences.

And then there was the Sacré-Cœur Basilica. The Basilica of the Sacred Heart is just barely 100 years old and commands an amazing view of Paris on the Montemartre, particularly for watching the sun set. From what we could see in our guide books prior to our arrival, there were a few grassy areas where we could spread a blanket and enjoy a romantic evening with a picnic dinner.

This Montmartre door
had eyes.
It's really too bad that reality didn't match our expectations.

First of all, the climb to the top was unpleasant, and I'm not referring to the incline. There were hordes of tourists all trying to do the same thing we were, and to compound the problem, there were what I could only describe as gangs of young men aggressively hawking their wares. And by hawking, I should say harassing, verbally assaulting, and intimidating anyone they singled out. They attempted to forcibly put a bracelet on my friend's arm, then stormed after her shouting and screaming for her to buy their trinket when she refused. He chased us up the final set of steps to the Sacré-Cœur, and it wasn't until the crowds closed behind us that we finally were free. It was angering and also alarming.

Secondly, there was the atmosphere of the Sacré-Cœur itself. My oh my, it is a beautiful building! But... the inside of the basilica felt more like a market than a church. There were machines selling commemorative stamped coins strategically spaced throughout the structure. Despite the signs to keep quiet and to take no photos, it was noisy and full of flash photography. It was a far cry from our experience in the Notre-Dame, which despite the hundreds of tourists lined up to view it, had a more solemn and spiritual feel.

But that is just my opinion! And despite the downsides, I am glad that we experienced it for ourselves.


View of Paris (and the hordes) from the Sacré-Cœur.

Have you visited the Sacré-Cœur Basilica?

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June 09, 2016

48 Hours in Paris


One of the biggest excuses Americans give for not traveling abroad is that they don't have enough time. But this excuse doesn't fly with me (pun totally intended). In 2014 I spent a whirlwind 48 hours in London and managed to see most of the top attractions during that short time. Last year, I did the same thing in Paris, plus I was in the throes of first trimester pregnancy sickness. It was a weekend long on walking and short on rest, but it was so worth it! And you know what I'm about to say... if I could do it, you can, too!

A Brief Account of 48 Hours in Paris

Day One
We took the early morning, high speed train from Stuttgart (Germany) to Paris, arriving at the Gare du Nord around 10am. From there it was a leisurely 10 minute walk to our no-nonsense hotel (with a quick stop at the deliciously gothic Eglise Saint-Laurent) where we dropped our baggage and prepared to see the sights!

The Rue Saint-Martin* was the most direct route from our hotel to our first destination: the Notre Dame. My first glimpse of the church stunned, standing proud and white against the gray skies. It was the first moment in Paris where I felt that familiar tingle - the one you get when you're finally standing in front of a place you've stalked in books, shows, and movies and you just can't believe you're actually there!

There was a long line to enter the Notre Dame, but the wait wasn't overbearing. Danny could've spent the rest of the day here, but unfortunately the rest of Paris beckoned! We dragged him away to walk along the River Seine and then deeper into Paris to the Panthéon.

Having left the Paris portion of our Europe trip for our friends to plan, I had never heard of the Parisian Panthéon (we saw the "real" one in Rome back in 2014), but I certainly had heard of the famous Frenchmen and women buried there: Dumas, Voltaire, Marie Curie, and Victor Hugo, to name just a few.

From the Panthéon we backtracked to the Louvre to snap a few pyramid pictures in the courtyard (the museum was closed) before going back to the hotel and hunting for a restaurant to appease the growling bellies of two pregnant women.


Day Two
Our second day dawned just as overcast and cool as the first, but we were counting on the Eiffel Tower to lighten our moods! The lines were insanely long (pre-book your tickets months in advance to cut down on some of the wait time), but we finally made it to the top by mid-morning. The views did not disappoint, despite the fog and clouds.

After a ridiculously overpriced lunch a few kilometers away from the tower, it was only natural to distract ourselves from our lightened wallets with a little walk in the Jardin du Luxembourg. Spring still hadn't quite sprung in Paris in early May, but the gardens were gorgeous nonetheless. A few weeks later and I'm sure the flowers would have been in bloom.

However, there were plenty of flowers in the Cathedral of Saint-Louis des Invalides, a church dedicated to French military veterans located in the all-encompassing campus of Institution Nationale des Invalides (National Institute for Veterans). What most international tourists come to see at Les Invalides is the burial spot of Napoleon himself, the most celebrated non-Frenchman in all of France.

We had no time to tarry long at Napoleon's resting place, because we had to see the arch commemorating those who fought or died under him in the Napoleonic Wars. At the time of its construction, the Arc de Triomphe was the tallest triumphal arch in the world. While it's no longer the tallest, in my opinion that doesn't matter; it was the most beautiful sight in all of Paris. The sun was finally out, and the French flag danced beneath the arch while a commemorative ceremony for Victory in Europe Day (May 7th) played out. I could've stayed there all day watching the traffic flow around and down the Champs-Élysées from the Arch.

But there was still more to see during our last few hours in Paris! We took the metro, which we found to be very easy to navigate, to Montmartre** and the Sacré-Cœur Basilica. Montmartre, which means mountain of the martyr (referring to Saint Denis), affords sweeping views of Paris and is best known for its nightlife and for the Sacré-Cœur. Our friends' guidebook touted the basilica as the best place to view the sunset. We arrived in time to take a quick turn around the church itself before watching some street performers and the sun's descending performance.

Sacré-Cœur Basilica on Montmartre
Thoroughly exhausted by this point, we returned to our hotel room for a few hours of shut-eye before catching our 7am train back to Germany the next day.

And that, my friends, is how you do 48 hours in Paris.


What places would you rank as "must-see" for a 48 hour trip to Paris?

Want more about Paris? Fellow blogger, friend, and self-confessed Francophile Christy Swags of What Up, Swags?! lived in Paris for four years and has tons of Parisian inside scoop to dish out!


*We were not very comfortable on the Saint-Martin, the Boulevard des Strasbourg, or the general area around our hotel. Even in the middle of the day, there were a lot of prostitutes and loiterers on the streets. One of our companions asked sarcastically if we were in Paris or downtown Detroit. While I've never been to Detroit, I can only say that that area of Paris certainly evoked comparisons to the stereotypes of seedy downtown areas.


**This was possibly the most unpleasant part of our visit to Paris as we had to go through what could only be called a gauntlet of young men harassing us to buy souvenir trinkets. One went so far as to grab my friend E and try to force a bracelet on her arm. When she refused, he followed her up the steps shouting at her, and even when she and her husband broke into a run up the steps, he continued to follow until the crowd closed around them, preventing him from going further.


Linking up with:

April 18, 2016

Eyeing Eiffel's Tower

One doesn't visit Paris and not visit the Eiffel Tower, am I right?!

May gave us a cold shoulder for our visit, but we were undeterred.

Want your neck to be as tall and elegant as Eiffel's Tower? Simply crane your neck out trying to see the top from the very bottom!


Ja, we know we coo'. 

Overcast views from 281 meters above Paris.

Gray skies can't diminish the beauty of a bird's eye view.

My favorite attraction in Paris - the Arc de Triomphe.

"ERMERGERSH WE BE IN PARIIIIIEEE!" obligatory selfie.

Care to share your favorite pictures of the Eiffel Tower? Feel free to post them on my FB page or tag me on Twitter or Instagram!


February 27, 2016

"I Actually Louvred It!" ~ What Up, Swags?!

Whether you've had it on your bucket list since high school or you only recognize it due to its iconic glass pyramid, the Louvre is one of Paris' must see attractions. Sadly, our weekend visit to Paris last spring did not afford us enough time to visit the Louvre beyond a quick walk-through of the courtyard. 

Thankfully, I can still share some highlights of this world class museum through the eyes of Christy Swagerty, fellow blogger, American expat, and avid Francophile, blogging at What Up, Swags?! Up until her recent move to Germany's state of Bavaria, Christy lived and worked in the general metro area of Paris for four years, and she recently authored the ebook "Four Years in Paris" detailing her life in the city of light. Her blog is an array of humorous anecdotes, witty escapades, and earthy adventures as an expat in Europe, and she has graciously permitted me to re-blog her account of her first time at the Louvre!


***

This day was a long time coming.

Spiral stairs inside the pyramid 
I started visiting Paris in February 2011, then moved to the lovely suburbs later that year in August. I have walked by and around the museum monolith countless times - but never inside - until yesterday.

The Louvre was understandably intimidating, and I did not want to be negatively overwhelmed with walking, crowds, and more than enough art I may not appreciate. But in regularly putting off my date with one of the largest museums in the world, anticipation replaced the initial dread I had experienced. It slowly changed from a tourist chore to an absorption of culture (it helped that I changed from tourist to expat, also). I'm so glad I waited until I was ready.

Stairs inside the Sully (oldest) wing
First misconception: the Louvre is a museum.
Truth: the Louvre is a collection of CASTLES. I fell in love within seconds of grasping this new reality.

Second misconception: it's impossible to find anything.
Truth: the maps and room markings are made for dummies; I never got lost, and I found everything I wanted to easily.

Third misconception: the Richelieu wing has nothing interesting.
Truth: Only if you despise the history of humanity.

Fourth misconception: it takes a full day at insane speeds to see what you want to see.
Truth: Two hours, leisurely pace.

Some Art:
Venus de Milo (Greece, ca. 100 B.C.)
In a word: peaceful.


Mona Lisa (Leonardo Da Vinci, 1500s)
Everyone always complains about how "small" the painting is - it really isn't as tiny as I thought it was going to be. It's just a normal painting, about life-size. It maybe appears smaller because it has its own entire wall space?


The Coronation of Napoleon (Jacques-Louis David, 1800s)
This is the zoomed in version so you can see what's at the center of the action. The glowing woman on the left background is actually Napoleon's mom, and he had David paint her there even though she wasn't at the ceremony. In the middle is Napoleon crowning his wife, Josephine, the empress. And behind him in the red cap is the angry pope because Napoleon had just previously taken the crown from him and placed it on himself. I don't think Napoleon told David to paint the pope mad, so maybe it was his way of retaining some reality in the piece.


Madame Juliet Récamier (Jacques-Louis David, 1800s)
In a word: elegant.


Winged Victory of Samothrace (Greece, ca. 190 B.C.)
This statue is so beautifully intense! It apparently used to stand on a mountaintop, celebrating a war victory at sea. It is huge, dramatic, and owns a great top-of-the-staircase location in the museum.


(Liberty Leading the People by Eugène Delacroix was unfortunately out on loan to another museum.)

Some Awesome History:
Apollo Gallery


"The Louvre Museum, founded September 16, 1792, by decree of the Legislative Assembly, was opened August 10, 1793, in execution of a decree rendered by the National Convention."

The Apollo Gallery is lined with ornate portraits of sculptures, architects, writers, and other French art contributors.


Also in the gallery were some of the crown jewels from the French royal family, "dishes" (more like the crown jewels than something from Ikea), and abalone shell goblets.


The well-traveled wings of the museum are Sully (east, perpendicular to the river) and Denon (south, next to the river). But the Richelieu wing had two things I really wanted to explore, the first being Napoleon's apartments.


An excellent decision.


The rooms were loaded with every royal fancy, and the only thing missing was an elaborate library. Every inch of the place was decorated; ceilings, walls, doors, windows, corners, floors, furniture, handles, lights, you name it! It still stands to wonder why on earth Louis XIV "needed" to remodel Versailles.

Hammurabi's Code (Babylon, ca. 1760 B.C.)
This was the other grand and fabulous item in the Richelieu wing. I always remember something about this set of laws from the few rounds of world history I took throughout school because every book started with the "Cradle of Civilization," Mesopotamia...and Hammurabi's Code.


The best part is that I had no idea this was in the Louvre, let alone existing, and I nearly dropped my museum map when I read it had been here all along. Seeing this ancient form of government and humanity precisely drawn into rock from thousands of years ago? This is not an exhibit that can be skipped over! I spent more than a few moments here, and this was far and away my favorite "piece of art."

The font-size 6 cuneiform inscribed stone
Some Unexpected Highlights:
The Line I Didn't Stand In
Thanks again to Rick Steves, I entered instead through the underground mall, waltzing right through security and into the rooms. The entrance these people are waiting for is on the opposite side of the pyramid, and another hour or two away.

How tourists spend Free Museum Days
The Ceilings


Someday I want to return to the Louvre and just look up the entire time. These ceilings are just the ones that came out best with my iPod camera - there were too many to count. The shapes, textures, materials, colors, and designs all combined for some epic 3-D room toppers.



The Louvre was filled with surprises, and almost all of them (the only exception was the missing Delacroix masterpiece) were perfect!

As if I didn't have enough to smile about already, this guy TOTALLY made my day. This is definitely the most entertaining thing I've ever seen in any museum anywhere.

The Great Museum Detective


In a word: MAGNIFIQUE!

Final misconception: I would hate the Louvre.
Truth: I can't wait to go back!

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Want more Swags? Check her out at the links below!

February 23, 2016

Impressions of Paris


Oh, Paris...

Nine months have elapsed since our spring weekend trip to your pretty boulevards and crowded metro stations, and I'm long overdue to share a few thoughts about our time wandering your arrondissements. There's so much I have to say about you, but a busy life and then senseless tragedies on your streets have prevented me from posting much beyond a few photo essays or mentioning you in passing.

Paris, you were... exactly what I expected and exactly what I didn't expect. I was overwhelmed by the grandeur of Notre Dame, giddy to pinch the Louvre's pyramid between my fingers, and awed by the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysee spilling down from it. Your buildings were bright even in the gloomy weather, and the green trees lining your streets lent an air of suburbia rather than the huge metropolis you are. The sun peeking through the clouds long enough to smile upon the cafe patrons on Montmartre and the blue skies framing Eiffel's Tower are mental postcards I'll carry for the rest of my life.

But I never caught the joie de vivre of which so many gush about finding on your streets or while walking along the Seine. I was nervous in your metro stations, harassed and chased by the street sellers at the Sacre Coeur, and experienced the stereotypical Parisian attitude from all but one Parisian restaurateur (who seemed to have been only a recent settler in the city). Perhaps it's not entirely your fault. After all, we were only there for a weekend, and I was struggling with the exhaustion and nausea of first trimester pregnancy. And beyond a few hours of breaking clouds, the weather left much to be desired, too.

So perhaps the second or third time will be the charm for me. I will definitely return someday to revisit your world-class sites, see those which I missed, and to try to catch some of that joie de vivre for myself, perhaps over a fine Parisian wine or while giving my taste buds an adventure of escargot, foie gras, or steak tartare. I'll return not naive to your problems, but cognizant and open-minded to see past them and hopefully improve upon my last experience.

Until then, I remain respectfully yours, etc.

***


Have you ever had a return visit that improved upon your first impressions?

Stay tuned later this week for more Paris insights with a guest post from Christy of What Up, Swags?! and co-host of Travel Tuesday!






Linking up with Bonnie, Christy, Diana & Anna!

December 21, 2015

Paris Photo Fails


Travel isn't always sunshine, roses, perfectly coiffed hair, and spectacular photos like Instagram would lead you to believe. No, more often than not, travel involves fuzzy photos, other tourists who wander obliviously into your view and then stubbornly refuse to leave, and those photos that make you go "why in the world did we take that picture?!" 

So without further ado, on the heels of my Prague Photo Fail post, I am pleased to present the best of the worst photo fails from our visit to Paris

Yeah, thanks, y'all - I thought you were my friends!

This dude saw us posing AND STOOD IN THE WAY ANYWAY!!!

Apparently, I had no idea this picture was being taken.

Tomatoes, tomahtoes? Nah, just some fruit to keep this pregnant lady happy in Paris. Not really a photo "fail" except I don't know why my husband thought this picture was necessary! :)

Classic mid-stride awkardness.

Close, but no cigar!

Classic mid-sentence awkwardness.

Oooo, this one features two fails - fuzziness AND hair in the face!

Do you have any photo fails you'd like to share?