Mountain Cove Vineyards, Virginia's Oldest (And Most Approachable) Winery

Let's face it, the stereotype for most wine drinkers generally runs along the adjectives of affluent, sophisticated, and somewhat aloof, and most wineries tend to cater towards that higher-class stereotype - pinkies up, my friends! But while these stereotypes may have some root in truth, many of us winos are just your average Joes and Janes looking to enjoy a good glass of wine while rubbing shoulders with people from every background.  Wine is not just a country club event, and Mountain Cove Vineyards, the oldest operating winery in Virginia, showcases this approachable side of wine in a rustic setting fit for the Queen of Sheba herself.

Old red barn near the tasting room.
(C) Brittany James

I loved Mountain Cove Vineyards from the moment we wound our way down the gravel driveway, flanked by rows of vines and capped with the rolling skyline of the Blue Ridge.  Everything about the place, from the rustic red sheds on the property to the country-style interior of the tasting room, makes a visitor feel welcomed.  Whether in a sundress and sandals, shorts and a t-shirt, pinkies up or down, you'll feel right at home.

As we exited the car, we were greeted with a friendly "Hello!" from the vines. "Are you here for the wedding or the wine?"  the woman asked as she took off her gardening gloves. "The wine!" we called back, and she came out of the vineyard and led us into the tasting room.

Wooden shelves, canned jams, and a pot-belly stove sit side-by-side with the rows of Mountain Cove's wine inside the tasting room. Tastings are free, which is a welcome practice in an industry that often charges fairly high prices for very small samples. Two wines in particular took our fancy: the Skyline White and the Tinto.

(C) Brittany James

The Skyline White is Mountain Cove's signature white made from the Villard Blanc variety, a grape native to the Vouvray region of France. It is light on the palate with semi-sweet tones, perfect to pair with a chicken or seafood meal - or just drink it sans food like some of us do!

But for us the Tinto wine stole the day. As their website states, this is the red wine for non-red drinkers, and I can personally vouch for that. The only wines I tend to enjoy are light and sweet like muscadine. However, Tinto is neither light or sweet, but the minimization of tannins and the overall drinkability of this Norton, Cabernet Franc, and Chambourcin blend made me an immediate fan.

Don't take my word for it, though. Stop by and taste it for yourself!

Part of the #252by2022 challenge.

All photos are the property of Brittany James and are used with permission. Unauthorized use of these photos is strictly prohibited.

Linking up for the #WeekendWanderlust!

Toasting the Velvet Revolution at Democracy Vineyards

When a friend and I went wine hopping a few weekends ago, I never expected to learn about politics. But at Democracy Vineyards in Lovingston, Virginia, we toasted the principles of democracy over a refreshing glass of Petit Manseng and under the stirring slogans of dozens of political memorabilia.

(c) Brittany James

Before you even discover Democracy's tasting room, however, the vine-blanketed hills of the vineyard greet you. We actually stopped the car in the middle of the road in order to fully appreciate the bucolic scenery before continuing down the hill. There the contemporary architecture of the tasting room building stands in bold contrast with the rustic feel of the vineyard; we found the juxtaposition to be full of attitude.

Red, white, and blue are the dominating accents of the tasting room's interior. Owners Susan Prokop and Jim Turpin have taken the democracy theme to an eclectic level by decorating the walls with a collection of historic political memorabilia, ranging from American campaign posters to a quilt made from political t-shirts from all over the world and from banners celebrating the success of the Velvet Revolution to campaign posters touting slogans of a German political party. While most of the memorabilia seems to favor the left-side of politics, none of the displayed collectibles date more recently than thirty or forty years, so our right-wing compatriots won't feel too uncomfortable here.

But let's get to the wine!

We had to wait nearly ten minutes after arrival before we were able to begin tasting the wine; five people were already cozied up to the tasting bar, leaving no space available for us. But once seats opened up, we had the undivided attention of the tasting room attendant, and we sampled the full-line up of Democracy's wines, from Merlot to Chambourcin. Like the interior decoration, the names of the wine also follow a democratic theme, from Emancipation to Constitution.  And once again, the Velvet Revolution made an appearance in the form of a dry red blend; the Velvet Revolution was the peaceful overthrow of the communist party in Czech Republic (then known as Czechoslovakia), and owner Susan Prokop feels a close affinity with the event due to her family's Czech heritage.

We finally settled upon our favorites - the Declaration, a dry white blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, and Petit Manseng, for Brittany, and the Republic, a 100% Petit Manseng, for me - and deposited ourselves into some of the most comfortable patio furniture this side of the Mississippi while surveying Democracy's tidy rows of vines.  It was another enjoyable visit to a great Virginia winery.

Part of the #252by2022 challenge.

The first two photos are the property of Brittany James and are used with permission. Unauthorized use of these photos is strictly prohibited.

The Virginia Grape & Horton Vineyard

When Thomas Jefferson planted vines at Monticello in 1773, he dreamed that Virginia would one day rival European winemakers in both quality and quantity.  Seven times he attempted to grow vines, but each time black rot and other native pests killed the European grapes.  What Jefferson needed was a hardy grape with native genetics to resist disease and European components to develop fine wine.

(C) Brittany James

Less than seventy miles away in Richmond but a few decades later, Dr. Daniel Norton was experimenting with a grape cultivar derived from the seedling of the Bland vine that was open-pollinated presumably by Vitis aestivalis, a native plant.  The combination proved to be a success.  By 1830, Dr. Norton was selling the plant, called Norton or Norton's Virginia, for cultivation in Virginia and Missouri.  It grew quickly in popularity - and not just within the United States.  By 1873, a Norton wine triumphed over its European counterparts at an international exhibition in Vienna.

Then Prohibition struck North America, and for the next seventy years, the Norton was largely forgotten.

But in 1989, a new vineyard made an appearance in Virginia and brought with it the revival of the Norton Grape.  Owner Dennis Horton originates from Hermann, Missouri, which flourished as the epicenter of wine-making in pre-Prohibition America and whose bootlegging residents kept the Norton grape from going extinct during the Prohibition.

(C) Brittany James

When Horton first opened Horton Vineyards in its current location northeast of Charlottesville, less than 20 miles from Jefferson's Monticello, he gambled with the planting of many types of grapes.  Ultimately, however, the Norton grape and the Viognier, a French variety, became two of his key players and has resulted in making Horton Vineyards a leader in the Virginia wine industry.

But those two grapes are not the only ones in Horton's arsenal.  They offer wine for any palate, from the sweet white notes of Niagara, also from an American grape, to the rich, tannic taste of Tannat.  No matter the selection, it is best enjoyed while overlooking the perfectly manicured lawn and vines which extend in front of the unique architecture of the tasting room.  Prices for tasting are reasonable at $5 a person.

While Jefferson's dream did not come to fruition in his lifetime, it is on the cusp of realization nearly 300 years later.  Virginia wine is rising in popularity, and if Jefferson were alive, he'd be smiling over a glass of Horton's Virginia wine.

(C) Brittany James

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All photos are the property of Brittany James and are used with permission.  Unauthorized use of these photos is strictly prohibited.

Part of the #252by2022 challenge.

General references:
"Dr. Daniel Norborne Norton and the Origin of the Norton Grape" by Rebecca K.R. Ambers, Ph.D. and Clifford P. Ambers, Ph.D. as published in the American Wine Society Journal, Volume 36, No. 3, Fall 2004.
"The Fascinating History Behind America's Oldest Grape: Norton" by Adam Teeter. 1 July 2014.
"Virginia's Special Viognier" by Ken Ringle as published in The Washington Post on 29 March 2006.

Linking up with #TravelTuesday!

Visiting EVERY Winery in Virginia

"We should visit every Virginia winery."

My friend Brittany and I lazily swirled our wine while pondering over my words, half-statement and half-challenge.  It was a perfect spring day, and having just visited two Virginia wineries that morning and acquired a map of all 252+ wineries in the Commonwealth, the idea was appealing.

"We should do it before you turn 30 - just to make it interesting," I said to my friend.  "That gives us five years."

"What if we have kids?  That's at least nine months each of not being able to drink, which means visiting a winery is pointless," Brittany countered.  "Let's shoot for when you turn 35."  With a nod and a clink of our glasses, the challenge was finalized, and #252by2022 began.*

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Barboursville Vineyards

Over the last decade, Virginia has seen a veritable explosion in viticulture.  From a mere six wineries in the 1970s, the industry grew slowly, numbering only 46 by 1995 and then 107 by 2005.  Ten years later, however, the official count stands at 252.**  With numbers like these, there's obviously something very exciting happening with Virginia wines - only California, New York, Oregon, and Washington can boast more within the United States.

Quantity does not always mean quality, but Virginia wines excel in both categories, already establishing a reputation on the world market.  The state is being hailed as the future "East Coast Napa Valley" with especial attention paid to the Shenandoah regions.

It was there in the Shenandoah viticulture region that Brittany and I settled upon our epic challenge.  Now instead of being dirt fishing widows, we'll spend our time racing the clock - making our way to and through every winery in the Commonwealth.

Wish our livers luck!

No better way to spend a Saturday. #vawinetrail

A photo posted by Thrifty Gypsy's Travels (@thriftygypsy87) on Apr 11, 2015 at 10:08am PDT

Read more about the history of Virginia wines here.
*Every visit will be written about and links to every winery will be found on my Virginia Vineyards page or can be seen on Twitter / Instagram with the #252by2022 hash tag.
**As of this article's publication.  If the number rises, we will still attempt to visit before 2022!

Linking up with the #SundayTraveler!

A Taste of Barboursville Vineyards

Located in the heart of the Virginia Piedmont, Barboursville Vineyards entices visitors with stunning landscapes, evocative ruins of a Thomas Jefferson-designed manor, and, of course, its world-class wines.

Appropriately, a first glimpse of Barboursville Vineyards is of the vines themselves.  Whether erupting in new spring growth or sporting hearty brown leaves of autumn, the sight of them should excite your taste buds in anticipation of their fruits.  Make your way from the shaded parking lot to the American-colonial-meets-Italian-villa inspired tasting rooms, restaurant, gift shop, and event room.  The architectural combination comes with no surprise when you learn that Gianni Zonin, patriarch of the largest network of privately-owned vineyards in Italy, has also owned and operated Barboursville since 1976.  And when Italian viticulture marries Virginia-grown grapes, the results are delicious.

A small fee provides you with a glass and the ability to taste all the vineyard's current wines, which numbered to over twenty vintages in September 2014.  Crackers, small sips, and copious amounts of provided water will ensure a safe drive home after sampling the Merlots, Carbernet Sauvignon, Pinio Grigio, and more.  As a self-admitted lover of sweet wines, I was especially taken with the Philéo, a crisp dessert wine that pairs nicely with fruit or cheese.

Other Barboursville notables are the 2008 Malvaxia Passito, the 2010 Nebbiolo, and the 2010 Octagon, all selected among the 2014 Governor's Case, which highlights the top twelve Virginia wines for the year.

A visit to Barboursville is not complete without wandering around the ruins of the Barboursville Mansion, designed in the 1820s by Thomas Jefferson himself, and currently listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  Rendered a ruin by a fire on Christmas Day 1884, the mansion ruins provide a tragically beautiful backdrop to the vines which blanket the hill in front of it.  Two service buildings, believed to have been constructed circa 1790 and probably served as the original dwellings for the Barbour family, now provide lodging as inns; book a stay on an August weekend and you can catch a Shakespeare play presented on the grounds of the ruins.

While many great winery operations have made Virginia their home, Barboursville is certainly among the forefront, both in the quality of their vintage and in the spectacular scenery of their vineyards, and as they near forty years of operation, expect to see even more award-winning wines in their future.

Have you visited Barboursville Vineyards or any other Virginia winery?

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Linking up with Chasing the Donkey for the #SundayTraveler!